One thing I have been wondering about, and would like to see and view, are VR panos made from 35mm film then processed to CD, using a kodak or local lab CD from film. I would like to investigate this option more.
Do the commercial / one hour style scanners for making photo CD from film have a high enough res? Does the kodak photo CD process make an exposure for each image on the CD or does it just scan them through much as my flat bed Microtek scanner does at the same density. I don't scan that much material, well not as good as my partner does, so I leave most critical scanning to him.
If the scanned film image is of a Hi-Res, then shooting heli-sking VRs in the extreme cold may be best done with a cold weather rigged Nikon F4, F3hp,P or T, or a little FA perhaps. What about a Sigma 8mm on that F4 or F3 for a cold weather set-up with a Kadian head and a light weight tri-pod. you could take two lenses the Sigma 8mm for panos and an 80-200 2.8 ED for action shots. you could pre-focus or pan zoom /focus trak them as well as do landscapes. That all would fit nicely in a lowel photo trekker backpack. Lowel packs have a bigger beefy zipper and seem to take a lot of abuse, for when you wipe out you'll need it. No matter how good of a skier/boarder you are "Don't ski with a lens attached to a body" , thats a no,no. The expensive and also nice Tamrac backpack blew its zipper out in the snow due to its freezing and the poor small fine toothed zipper design. Tamrac photo backpacks are nice,but not good in the snow.
I shot a lot of ski racing with a Nikon F4 mostly, and the F3 and FA with alkaline motordrives for years, everything set to manual focus and exposure. The F4s is a great cold weather mtn camera.
I also shot a lot of olympic bump skiers and air flights with an EOS1 (al-servo), the EOS1 style camera with a booster takes a ni-cad,so colder weather requires two fully charged ni-cads, you need to keep them warm with your body heat. After about five hours in the extreme cold all the nicads in the world won't keep that ESO1 firing. If you try to use a lithuim battery in the cold, you will have a dead camera in less then an hour.
The EOS1 booster and ni-cad charger I think is like over $500.00 bucks. A must for the extreme cold.
I wonder how the D60 or EOS D1s reacts under these conditons?
The best cold weather and ski photographers I have worked with and or worked for used F3hp's and F3p, on manual. with nikkor glass.
Nikon matrax metering is great in the snow.
My best mnt snow photos were taken with a manual Nikon FA on tv with "ED" glass.
I have always been told that Canon "L" lenses were the best.
what was the "D' then "ED Nikon lenses are very superior as well.
When I take a meter reading off a gray card its the same as the back of my hand, same goes for the light meter. if the back of my hand says 1/250 at 5.6 when taking a reading then my gary card and light meter will be the same , don't know about other peoples .
I have a feeling after about 3 or 4 hour in the below zero temp the Canon D60 goes dead,can anyone confirm this? the A2,elan, 35 SLR do, I would think the D60 does as well.
The ESO1 D1s is probably better then a D60 in extreme cold I would think? but who knows.
If it had to be shot with a digital in the snow I would want to use a EOS D1s or something rugged, but tested. Maybe you could use a Digi nikon too, if the Digi SLR could handle the cold? and you could confire this?
or I would use a manual nikon. F4 but its heavy or F3 then you could ditch the motor drive for a weight savings.
I just don't think a little digi cam can handle the extreme cold temps you will be taking it too. I could be all wrong but my little nikon and olys digitals are not real good outside in the cold for very long , and I am affraid to leave them out in the cold for so long as they might break permanently. The ESO1 will freeze up eventually in the extreme cold, as for the F4, but it takes a lot of direct exposure, F3 not as bad? don't know why this is. You can almost freeze these camera so bad outside that they are one big ice chunk and it will not hurt it or stop it. you would be amazed how much abuse these camera will take. But these camera will come back up when dethawed properly, watch out for this, just one time in from the cold and moisture will eat up your cam, bring zipplocks baggies, put camera in zipplock before you bring it in , and thaw slowly, in the frozen cam bag, best to read up on this before hand, you can kill an expensive camera if you don't do this the right way.
Corrado
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