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Re: zenith and nadir shots



I am using the FC-E8 with 995. I take 4 shots around. always standing behind camera. This in its self captures the full 360 X 180 but the nadir and zenith will be soft because it is using the very edge of the image. The nadir contains the tripod but not me.

I take another picture straight down with the camera attached to the tripod and holding the tripod and camera away from me as far as possible I take the picture with a cable release. Get as little of me in the picture as possible. ( I use a mechanical cable release held in place over the button of the camera with the use of piece of metal that use remove from a computer when you add a computer card.) Here are some examples not like mine http://steves-digicams.com/nikon_cable.html

- I use PTGui to create the pan and use photoshop without masks. - In Photoshop, adjust the masks of all layers except the nadir.
- Flatten all layers except nadir.
- Use the panoramic tools adjust plugin to extract a 90 deg full frame fisheye image from both the nadir and flattened layers. I usually go a little more than 1/2 the height of the pan so I do not loose any info.
- Copy the nadir on top of the other adjust the masks to hide the tripod and flatten
- Use the panoramic tools adjust plugin, insert image.
- Copy and past on top of original. Use magic wand to select black area. I usually increase the selection by 20 and then feather by 8 to make sure no seams show up by accident.
- Discard original nadir.
- Flatten.


To fix the sky of any dark area (caused by light falloff)
- Use Panoramic Tools Adjust plugin to Extract a 120 deg full frame fisheye image of pitch 90 (straight up). 2/3 the height in pixels.
- Create new layer
- Use eye dropper to select the sky color before it gets dark.
- Change the merge method to lighten
- Paint on the new layer to hide the dark area of the sky caused by falloff of the lens.
- Use filter Add Noise between 1 and 2 percent and Gaussian.
- If this covers a very large area and is noticeable I will set the opacity down to about 70 % and create another layer and do the same thing with a darker color.
- Use Panoramic Tools Adjust plugin to Insert back into the panoramic format.
- Copy & past onto original. Use magic wand & delete. Flatten


I use full frame fisheye instead of rectilinear to make my corrections to the nadir and zenith. With rectilinear and wide angle views the center half of the pixels represent more than half the view of the outer half of the pixels. With fisheye it is constant. I have not had to deal with straight lines since working in this method. With a tile floor it may be usefully to use rectilinear instead of fisheye, your mind can just understand it better.

Taking the nadir and zenith shot in addition, means that you are not using the extreme edges of the image to display them. The extreme edges suffer most from light falloff and distortion. By using separate images you can zoom in more and get larger panorama.

Short question, long answer.  Hope it helps.

Jim Watters


Daniel Fenner wrote:

On Thursday, September 18, 2003, at 01:28PM, Jim Watters <email@hidden> wrote:



With some VR heads it is possible to point the camera straight up and down. Half the problem solved right there. Even still the only way to get a full 360 X 180 image without the tripod is to move the tripod.


How do you keep yourself from being in the shot? And if you are in it, how do you remove yourself later?


I use the infamous FC-E8 fisheye converter with my Coolpix 885. Will this taking the up and the down improve my quality?

Thanks.

Dan
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 >Re: zenith and nadir shots (From: Daniel Fenner <email@hidden>)



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