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Re: Which pano head is good.?



Keith Martin wrote:
> For critical work with important near/far items in view I'm sure
> there's a greater risk of parallelax errors using a monopod, but it
> sounds like something I should learn for quick work with the right
> scenes.
Indeed there is a trade-off and while it is possible to produce visually
appealing end results with imprecise shots by manually masking the
warped shots individually so to run the seams conveniently, it will cost
you time which can be one of the critical factors.

Another critical factor is distance: the closest the object, the most
difficult the stitch. I calculated and positioned the camera precisely
to the millimeter to make
<http://geoimages.berkeley.edu/wwp906/html/YuvalLevy.html> but I still
had to work with masks on the individual warped shots.

In general, a precise pano head will make it for a faster processing,
though the precision required is *not* the pin-registered replicability
of each shots. The only precision required is that of turning the camera
around the No-Parallax-Point and providing enough overlap.

In a situation where I can afford it, I use a precisely calibrated NPP
adapter. But even with a slightly uncalibrated one, I get most full
spherical stitches to work "out of the box" when running them through
PTgui. In seldom difficult cases I have to set up the control points
manually, and very seldom I have to go through the pain of manually
editing the seams in Photoshop.

I have a lot of respect for people that shoot with less than optimal NPP
adapter, particularly those shooting handheld, which makes it
practically impossible to achive 100% alignement of the NPP of all shots
and requires excellent skills in each step of the workflow.

Yuv

Yuv
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References: 
 >Re: Which pano head is good.? (From: Paul Fretheim <email@hidden>)
 >Re: Which pano head is good.? (From: Keith Martin <email@hidden>)



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