>who can give me some suggestion about the best
possibility to get the better quality of print when
using a oneshot solution.
Well, of course one-shots are going to give you much
lower resolution images than traditionally stitched,
but you can make the best out of it by printing on a
continuous tone type device (such as a dye-sublimation
printer or photo emulsion transfer) rather than a
laser or inkjet.
The reasoning behind this is that dyesub printers or
photo emulsion transfer devices do not rely on a
dither-dot or linescreen dot pattern to create shades
of CMYK colors. They can actually print true shades of
each separation. This means that each pixel is fully
represented on the paper with no white space within or
between the dots. Much in the same way things are
displayed on your monitor. Thus, you get a much more
"impactful" pixel versus say an inkjet where
(depending on the shade it's creating) the pixel is
mostly white paper and your eye is relied upon to
optically mix the colors in your head.
Because of this, they only need half the resolution
(rule of thumb) that other printers need to reproduce
the same quality image. I guarantee you that an image
printed on the best quality paper with the best photo
ink-jet printer at 300dpi at say, 8"x10" will look
exactly the same (resolution-wise) printed at 150dpi
at the same 8"x10" size on a dyesub. But if you were
to print the 150dpi image at 8"x10" wide on the inkjet
it would fall apart and look very jaggie. The increase
in dynamic range in continuous tone makes up for the
lack of resolution. Weird but true...
To give you an idea of how big you could print a
one-shot out of a Coolpix 990/995 using the Kaidan
one-shot, here's an example:
The Coolpix 990/995's highest resolution is: 2048x1536
Thus, after shooting the sphere, and cropping garbage
out, you have about a 1500x1500 pixel image to unwrap.
The Kaidan rig is capable of about 120degrees of vFOV,
which works out to a panoramic scene about 2356x1300.
(Keep in mind this is an ideal, and you will probably
have a workable image a few 10s of pixels smaller, but
for simplicity sake, let's use those numbers)
So,
a 2356x1300 divided by 300dpi means you can print 7.9"
x 4.3" on inkjets and lasers, but
a 2356x1300 divided by 150dpi means you can print
15.7" x 8.7" on dyesubs or photo emulsion devices
---------
Use a digitial SLR (such as the Fuji S1pro) and you
can get the following:
The Fuji S1 pro highest resolution is: 3040x2016
Thus, after shooting the sphere, and cropping garbage
out, you have about a 2000x2000 pixel image to unwrap.
The Kaidan rig is capable of about 120degrees of vFOV,
which works out to a panoramic scene about 3141x1732.
(Keep in mind this is an ideal, and you will probably
have a workable image a few 10s of pixels smaller, but
for simplicity sake, let's use those numbers)
So,
a 3141x1732 divided by 300dpi means you can print
10.5" x 5.8" on inkjets and lasers, but
a 3141x1732 divided by 150dpi means you can print
20.9" x 11.6" on dyesubs or photo emulsion devices
----------
(unwrapped image heights/widths were calculatetd using
the REMAP PS plugin filter from Prof. Dersche)
Pretty nifty stuff... and excellent looking photo
quality prints.
Hope this helps...
-Mike Carambat,
Design Wizardry/HomespunVR Photography
www.designwizardry.com
www.homespunvr.com
=====
Mike Carambat
Design Wizardry - http://www.designwizardry.com
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