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RE: shooting spherical panoramas with circular fisheye lens?
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RE: shooting spherical panoramas with circular fisheye lens?



Hey there Mathew,

Well u should invest in a spherical panorama head or build your own, this
way all angles (except for down) are exact to the nodal point you have set
the head at. To shoot down, well, I use a piece of thread that is of
approximate length of distance between nodal to ground and than after
setting the cam to point down, I mark the axis where the thread touches,
viola u have another "quite approximately correct" base shot without the
tripod! (else use a monopod, saves up less space for the legs! I have a
monopod with a small manfrotto table-top tripod attached to the base as a
stabilizer!)

Sam

-----Original Message-----
From: B Yen [mailto:email@hidden]
Sent: Thursday, December 30, 2004 3:54 PM
To: Mathew Waehner
Subject: Re: shooting spherical panoramas with circular fisheye lens?

Mathew Waehner wrote:

> You probably have enough coverage in the single row of shots that you
> don't strictly need the top image.  If not, next time you can angle
> the camera up a few degrees and capture less of the tripod and cover
> the sky in one row.

When I "angle up the camera" (for each row of shots), I have to redo "nail
the nodal point"..correct?  (by angle-up, the nodal point of the camera no
longer coincides with the axis-of-rotation of the pan head..right?).  What I
don't understand, is how people can do this in the field *easily* (it
implies you have a near-foreground object, where you can do a "parallax"
test with a distant object.

When I was in that Arizona canyon recently, with that incredibly wide-angle
Nikon 16mm/2.8 (full frame fisheye) I was able to just use a "rock on the
ground" as my near foreground object.  I could kinda do a parallax test,
with an feature at infinity.  Say, I DIDN'T have that super wide angle
16mm/2.8, like a telephoto lens (to do a high-rest multi-row spherical
panorama).  Then, how do I do the parallax test ("nail the nodal point"), in
that situation?


>
>
> The "dang tripod legs" can only be removed in Photoshop by retouching.
> You will need to convert the image to six cube faces, patch up the
> bottom face, then put it back together.  Panoramic photography demands
> good retouching skills- extensive retouching is often unavoidable.
>
> Give it a shot and let us know if (when) you have questions!

I have an aversion to "insertion or deletion" (aka "Photoshopping"), it
violates the ethics of Editorial Photography..Google search this, you'll
see..  (Scientific Photography is along the same lines.."don't F** with the
data!" is the mantra among Scientific Illustration).

Remember that LA Times photographer last year, that got caught merging 2
images of those Iraqi civilians being watched a British soldier..one of the
Iraqi men APPEARED TWICE IN THE DOCTORED PHOTO!!  It was obvious, to
*anyone* who examined the photo halfway closely.  Needless to say, the LA
Times was in the embarassing position of publishing a "doctored (fraudulent)
photo"..they had no choice but to fire the photographer..TO PROTECT THEIR
REPUTATION as an "objective" (interpret this as you may..all media has a
particular bent, right or left wing) news source.

Remember that well known USA Today journalist, who got caught
*platgiarizing* an article for his article?  He was fired, & the chief
editor @USA Today was forced to resign (an upper management person felt the
"axe"!).  Not to mention the infamous NY Times plagiarism scandal (Jayson
Blair), where the head-editor was also forced out.  Then, there was that
other guy (college grad from some Pennsylvania university) working at some
well known magazine, who caught up in a web of lies..they actually did a
movie on it.

That infamous National Geographic "move the pyramids closer" scandal way
back when..where the cover shot was a doctored image.

I just got on this list..  Has the Ethics Issue cropped up in the past,
regarding "Photoshopping out tripod legs"?  One interesting thing: it's FAR
EASIER to get a CLEAN IMAGE out in the field, than coming home &
"photoshopping out unwanted artifacts" -- IT'S REALLY TIME CONSUMING!!  It's
the old saying "Pay now..or pay later!". I'd rather pay-my-dues out in the
field, & come back & have a relatively easy going stitching operation.  I
like that guy who posted the 3 pictures of his monopod arrangement.  I think
I will try to emulate his hardware, using my Bogen monopod (sitting around,
doing nothing).

>
>
> On Dec 29, 2004, at 12:00 PM, B Yen wrote:
>
> > Mathew Waehner wrote:
> >
> >> On Dec 29, 2004, at 6:41 AM, B Yen wrote:
> >>
> >>>  In doing the 4th vertical frame, is it necessary "to nail the
> >>> nodal point"?
> >>
> >> If there is blue sky above or a white ceiling, it won't matter a bit.
> >> That exposure shouldn't be necessary at all with a 7.5mm lens,
> >> although you may choose to use it as the edges of the fisheye
> >> circle are "stretcehd" more than teh center, and have a lower
> >> resolution.
> >
> > I examined the "vertical shots", I was in this canyon in Arizona..I
> > was picking up the canyon walls in addition to the blue-sky.  Does
> > that mean, the vertical-shot will help, or is it still unnecessary
> > like you say?
> >
> >>
> >>
> >> It requires an expensive tripod head to nail the nodal point with
> >> vertical tilt- the big advantave of fisheyes is that you can shoot
> >> a single row.
> >
> > I have no problem in "nailing nodal point" for my full-frame fisheye
> > (mounted vertically)..I have the Slik macro-focusing 2-axis
> > adjustable thing.  The PROBLEM, is these dang tripod legs..which
> > always appear in the bottom part of the frame.  It seems as if the
> > only way to avoid it, is to use a monopod.  If so, I don't get a
> > "systematic" way of doing constant-angle pans..I have to kinda
> > rough-guess, which is repulsive to me..  I don't like "uncertainty",
> > I need precision/accuracy/repeatability.
> >
> >
> >


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