Okay you gurus, I have some questions about white balance, and I’ll use an example to hopefully make it clearer. I often take nature photos in the woods, and it’s not unusual for my DSLR’s AWB to set the WB to something like 4200K and a tint of -3 or so. The camera sees all the greenish yellow leaves on the trees, reddish yellow leaves on the ground and probably assumes there is a yellowish cast, so it assigns a cooler WB to neutralize the “color cast” it thinks it sees. The result is an overly bluish image, and depending on the amount of green leaves or yellow-red leaves, it adjusts the tint as well. Not very accurate. If I use a gray card and use it to set an “accurate” WB, it forces the card to be perfectly neutral. That’s great for portraits, skin tones, or when you want a specific object in the scene to look more like it would when shot under daylight conditions (I.e., no shady woods to influence the color). However, if the goal is just a photo of the woods themselves, I often find this gray card WB to be overly warm and yellow. I’m guessing that our eyes and brain pick a WB that is somewhere between the above extremes. Perhaps we don’t really see a gray card as perfectly neutral under these conditions, so forcing it to be 0a/0b, may not be the best choice. I did a search on the internet, but didn’t find anything other than the “accurate” gray card method. There’s probably no simple answer, but I thought I’d see what folks on this forum have to say (assuming anyone hangs out here anymore!!). Thanks, Lou