I’m helping a friend get started with Color Management and the starting point is profiling his display. I use Eizos with the popup colorimeter and haven’t looked at the market for calibrators in a long time. I need some advice on what to recommend to him. His situation is also complicated by his graphics card which is a Nvidia GeForce GTX 960, which I gather is a higher end gaming card. He’s on a PC and the Nvidea has its own control panel to set the parameters for the display. I didn’t get a good look at all the options, but it seems like a set of controls to made to screw up the simple profiling of the display. I’m not sure if he plays games with it, but he does want to get into photo editing. His original question to me was “why are my prints always too dark” when he claims to have the display set at 700cd/m2. What equipment should I recommend to get him started? Thanks. Tony - Anthony Sanna (608) 206-3134 asanna@ismaldo.com <mailto:asanna@ismaldo.com> www.tonysanna.com
Hello Anthony I have the same video card on a MacPro Mid 2010 and it calibrates as well as the original video card that came originally with the MacPro. The NVDIA control panel for OSX doesn’t have any options to configure. We calibrate it to 100cd/m2 to match our average ambient light although it is a bit low to match prints on our Just Normlicht Prooftop Multi 5000. Our calibrator is a i1 Display Pro using BasICColor Display Not sure why your friend needs such a high luminosity. Is he working on direct sunlight? Thanks Xavi Carreras HautTouch Pellaires, 30-38 (Palo Alto) 08019 Barcelona www.haut-touch.com <http://www.haut-touch.com/>
On 18 Mar 2018, at 18:56, Anthony R Sanna <asanna@ismaldo.com> wrote:
I’m helping a friend get started with Color Management and the starting point is profiling his display. I use Eizos with the popup colorimeter and haven’t looked at the market for calibrators in a long time. I need some advice on what to recommend to him.
His situation is also complicated by his graphics card which is a Nvidia GeForce GTX 960, which I gather is a higher end gaming card. He’s on a PC and the Nvidea has its own control panel to set the parameters for the display. I didn’t get a good look at all the options, but it seems like a set of controls to made to screw up the simple profiling of the display. I’m not sure if he plays games with it, but he does want to get into photo editing. His original question to me was “why are my prints always too dark” when he claims to have the display set at 700cd/m2.
What equipment should I recommend to get him started? Thanks.
Tony - Anthony Sanna (608) 206-3134 asanna@ismaldo.com <mailto:asanna@ismaldo.com> www.tonysanna.com
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On Mar 18, 2018, at 10:56 AM, Anthony R Sanna <asanna@ismaldo.com> wrote:
What equipment should I recommend to get him started? Thanks.
Whatever X-Rite sells that matches his budget would be perfect. If he's only profiling his display when he happens to think about it, the cheapest display colorimeter they make will be more than adequate. If he wants to profile his printer -- and he probably will -- then the ColorMunki spectrometer is the way to go. If he has money to burn and anticipates diving deep, I can't sing the praises of the i1 Pro spectrometer high enough. (And the i1 Pro display colorimeter is pretty awesome, too.) Your friend is obviously already aware that the display's brightness is a key factor in appearance matching. He's in a good position to recognize that the brightness of the illuminant you're using for the print matters just as much. My favorite example is National Geographic. Their magazines are gorgeous in a viewing booth. They look pretty good in sunlight. They're horribly dark with completely blocked shadows in the typical dimly-lit home living room environment where most people actually look at them. I don't know if the software X-Rite ships with the Munki lets you create printer profiles for specific viewing conditions. If not, Graeme's ArgyllCMS does -- and does so superbly. But, of course, a print you make for a specific viewing condition will look great in those conditions and less so in others. For a least-worst all-purpose print, assuming D50 (which is what basically everything does by default) is your best choice. Cheers, b&
participants (3)
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Anthony R Sanna
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Ben Goren
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Xavi y Dani de Haut Touch