grayscale conversion
grayscale conversion
- Subject: grayscale conversion
- From: "Christopher Bain" <email@hidden>
- Date: Fri, 16 Dec 2005 11:27:08 -0500
- Thread-topic: grayscale conversion
Title: grayscale conversion
>>> Would you mind briefly outlining your channel mixer technique?
>It's image specific, so no automation. I start by reviewing the
>individual channels of the image in question to see which channels
>contain the detail.
Yes, this is the way I always convert full color images to grayscale, (unless I have hundreds of images to do) since the Channel Mixer gives you the visual feedback you need. By examining the RGB channels first you can get an idea of which one you like the most, and give that one an appropriately higher percentage. Once you've mixed 'em with the Channel Mixer (monochrome check box checked) and then click OK, you are still in RGB, of course, with the Channel Mixer adjustment layer, which you can save or flatten. When you then convert to Grayscale, doesn't the file then take on the characteristics of the grayscale that you've chosen in PS's Color Settings, as in 10% dot gain, 15% dot gain, 20% dot gain, gray gamma 1.8 or gray gamma 2.2? If my monitor is calibrated to 2.2 is this the better choice for my PS setting, or is the 15% dot gain that my separator/printer claimed the better choice? Is it really worth the effort to build the ramp that Jim described?
And of course, many of the images that we get from Corbis & Getty that "look" B&W arrive in untagged RGB, since that's how they scan them, and the three channels look identical, so the channel mixer doesn't help with these...
Chris Bain
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