Re: 20ps Dye-based inks fade to yellow and not stable until 72hours
Re: 20ps Dye-based inks fade to yellow and not stable until 72hours
- Subject: Re: 20ps Dye-based inks fade to yellow and not stable until 72hours
- From: Dan Reid <email@hidden>
- Date: Wed, 31 Jul 2002 17:05:13 -0600
On Wed, 31 Jul 2002 09:11:46 -0700, Robin Myers <email@hidden> wrote:
>
Roger Breton wrote:
>
>
> My problem is with the 20ps dye-based inks.
>
>
>
> I'm wondering whether HP is aware of this problem? And, of course, to what
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> extent they are doing something about it? Two days ago, I have sent them an
>
> Excel spreadsheet detailing the shift of color, in Delta E, that occurs as
>
> the ink dries on the paper, measured over a period of 72 hours -- I stopped
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> after 72 hours (maybe I shouldn't have) but I was so pissed that I did not
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> have the heart to continue beyond that time. I would say about 10% of all
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> the color patches on the target I was measuring over time shifted by as muh
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> as 10 Delta E. If anyone's interested to look at that data, you're more than
>
> welcome to contact me off-list.
>
>
This problem is not unique to HP but endemic to the entire inkjet
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printer industry. To solve this problem quickly, I have used two
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techniques successfully.
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>
1. Use a hair dryer. I take a hair dryer and carefully dry the print. To
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help prevent wrinkling I bend the print in an arc so that the tension
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will cause the print to "pop" to the curvature as it dries. This drying
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on the arc is performed with first an arc across one paper axis, then
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the other. Be very careful not to make the paper too hot or it might
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cause the colorants to change hue or lightness. So take your time.
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Typically, this takes me about an hour to get the print dry (your
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mileage will vary depending on ink, paper, hair dryer wattage and your
>
pain threshold for hot items in your hand).
Us old platinum printers out here have been using a drying box for some time
to quickly dry coated sheets. I have two hairdryers susspended and runing
through a diffuser that are elevated above prints in box. Works great for
drying hand-coated papers without scorching the paper.
>
>
2. Use a microwave oven. After watching a video where Ansel Adams dried
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his prints in a microwave to judge the difference between the wet and
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dry appearance, I decided to try this on inkjet prints. It works, but BE
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CAREFUL! Especially on semi-gloss and glossy papers vapor pressure can
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be increased under the coatings to the point where the paper will
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delaminate or bubble. So, start with just a few seconds (I start with 30
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seconds on Medium), then adjust to more time and power, depending on
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your microwave. I suggest using multiple drying cycles rather than
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trying to dry the print in one application. WARNING! You can destroy
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your print with this method easily. If you are using solvent based inks,
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be very careful about having open flames near the microwave or anything
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else that might set the vaporized solvent aflame.
Uncle Ansel? Geez, and he had his hands in selenium toner too! I wouldn't
recommend this procedure as it's too easy to breakdown the papers chemistry
if not careful. Uncle Ansel was putting gelatin-SILVER papers in microwave,
whoa!
>
>
The hair dryer technique is safer, the microwave technique faster. If
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you are concerned about possible color shifts with the accelerated
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drying, compare a print dried in air after several days with an
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accelerated print. Check the Delta-Es. If acceptable, you have a new
technique.
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>
Oh, I've only used this technique for profile target prints since my
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hairdryer and microwave are a bit small for those wide format prints.
>
>
Robin Myers
Another approach, I think someone else already stated, is using a drymount
press. This is probably the best approach with some blotter paper in
between. Get out your spectro to determine drying times.
I recommend the dry mount press procudeure if given option as you want have
the possbility of scorching the paper with the hairdryer.
--
Dan B. Reid
RENAISSANCE PHOTOGRAPHIC IMAGING
http://www.rpimaging.com | email@hidden
Toll Free: (866) RGB-CMYK
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