Re: Kelvin Relevance in Fine Art?
Re: Kelvin Relevance in Fine Art?
- Subject: Re: Kelvin Relevance in Fine Art?
- From: email@hidden
- Date: Tue, 08 Feb 2005 10:36:56 -0500
I agree with Doug - but can add that in my experience, if strobes are
diffused enough - say white translucent plexiglas 12-18" square or
other diffusion material - then the colors are much more true.
I'm speculating here, since I'm not a scientist, but i think there is a
large ultraviolet component in the strobe light output and the dyes in
the paint react with that. We have to remember that the film is also
dyes that are subject to interpretation of "reality". I also feel that
with Quartz lights as well you need to use some diffusion to avoid the
penetrating effect of bare bulbs that render the paint differently than
when viewed normally. Copy lighting is usually at 45 deg angle, but if
the paintings are larger i would try to light them from each corner. I
usually over-light the corners more than the middle - even the best
lenses vignette slightly, especially larger formats. With film you need
to do a test or two with different color correction filters, over the
lights if you can, and see the film result before the color correction
can be nailed. Once you have your formula it gets closer, but film
processing, different emulsion# and voltage on Quartz lights may still
necessitate a film color test, as close to the shoot time as practical.
A tethered digital camera is a good option, since you can judge and
measure the result on a profiled monitor during the shoot. With film, a
slight overall color shift can of course be corrected after scanning.
Even localized color correction is very possible....
Hope this helps - even if you knew it from before....
Ulf Skogsbergh
On Monday, February 7, 2005, at 11:28 PM, Doug Walker wrote:
On Monday, February 7, 2005, at 05:33 PM, Busher Jr Richard C wrote:
My question is, would I have been better off shooting with Quartz
lights rather than strobes? Is there another light source available
for photography that would be better?
Greetings Dick,
I have had the occasion to do quite a bit of strobe paintings early on
and found that often paints exhibited a flourescing (magenta shift
usually) and often exhibited the shift in hue you describe. Even with
circular and light polarizers.
Yes. Known Tungsten bulbs and 64T solved the problem. The colors
were much more accurate using this method. Aside from the longer
exposures and occasional reciprocity woes. Continuous light source
seems to be the key here. The colors may not be as punchy as you well
know but they certainly don't dance around the CIE model as much.
But then you already knew all this didn't you. ;-)
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